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Beendete Angebote. Can the wires go to either pin on the board? I was able to get the plastic connector back in place, and fit the wires into it. Polarity is needed. First time I got the fan running full. Switched the wires and now I think the fan is running normally. But I don't trust this connection over and time would like to find a replacement hard drive thermal sensor wire assembly.
Each of the hard drive temperature cable connectors have tiny little tabs on the sides. I found success using a small needle to carefully push under and pop the tab out. Thanks, that's a nice way, works really well for me. Just try to stick a needle on the side and lift it up, if it has come up a little you can gently pull the cable and it will come off with very little force on the cable.
These connectors are fairly easy to unplug. I used a wooden spudger to pry gently and the connectors popped right out. Putting them back in is easy just make sure they are right side up and they snap right back in. This is where I got in trouble too. No problems on the first of my Minis, but this time one of these sockets had poor soldering and just came off the board. Basically no solder connection to the posts that are there to hold the socket in place.
I ended up using a pin to pry the rest of them off, in case the others were also poorly connected. The outside of the socket is U shaped, with 2 small tabs at the lower end of the U. I inserted a pin next to these tabs and it let me lever the connectors out easily. Now I get to practice my soldering! I used a pick like a fine ice pick - available at Harbor Freight to pry up the plastic clips while gently pulling at the wires with tweezers.
They pull straight up. There are tiny tabs on the sides that kind of lock them in. I would not try just pulling on the wires. Everything is tiny and yrying to fix wires pulled out of the connectors would be very difficult. The pin method is definitely better. I used the pin to slightly spread the "wings" of the connector on the board.
Then I levered out the part that is attached to the wires. All done with the aid of a magnifying loop. I broke mine as well, did not replace the thermal sensor for the HDD, fan runs at full speed and is noisy. Went ahead and downloaded software fan control to reduce fan speed. So I read ahead a few steps. I was able to skip this step 13 and steps 15 and 16 and take out the drive without force. Step 14 worked as described. I have a mid without an optical drive so there was only a hard drive connector. First, i was a trained auto mechanic for 10 years then i got my electrical engineering degree!
Started fixing macs in with an oscope, soldering iron and the ic circuit handbook plus chips from apple. Apples construction methods have sure gotten more and more fragile over the years. Glad i still have great eyes! What I did, was just wiggle the drive out of the pc. Just pull it a little bit up and towards. Might need a little bit of force. But it should come out. Then, just remove the tape from the sata connector and then remove the sata connector from the hdd.
Then you can replace the hdd like mentioned in this tutorial. Entferne das Removal Tool. DON'T pull the tools towards you; rather, lever the top ends of the tools towards you, at and angle so that the bottom of the tools don't move. Took me a while to figure this out! Didn't have that special tool. Used iPhone repairset screwdriver. Worked fine with sticking it in to the holes verticaly and then push it towards me a bit, then changing holes and repeating that step. I suggest to pull the wires for the cd drive thermal sensor and and the infrared sensor upward to lift their connectors up and out of their respective sockets on the logic board highlighted in red in the third picture of step Place the shaft of the bits into the holes.
I had to watch a youtube video to see how this works. Then I realized you are just using the tools to pull the main board out toward the back of the mini. A couple of small screw drivers will do. Just make sure they go far enough into the hole to be able to lever against the bottom as you pull them towards you. Without this I started to damage the logic board slightly. Sliding the motherboard forward is not really needed to remove the hard drive, but it sure makes it a bit smoother. Just need to persuade it to go over the memory bracket. Im dritten Bild markiert.
I found that when removing the logic board out a bit that the IR sensor was not so much of a problem as was the HDD temperature sensor located next to the IR sensor. I don't know why it's not mentioned in the earlier step to just use the spudger to pop this cable off. Since it is mentioned in other guides for removal when replacing other parts.
This would have been really helpful and most likely I would not have been left with loose cables and now looking for a new sensor cable. That's just an FYI and a preventative measure. I take issue with this guide because I believe it has an error. With just one of two changes I wouldn't have destroyed my ZIF sensor connectors:. Following the instructions step by step and not reading a step ahead, you don't realize you can damage your cable irretrievably.
Even if you read the entire guide first, you can't be expected to memorize all warnings BEFORE you act on the instructions. This is truly the only safe thing to do. The new drive, being thinner than the old one, was a bit tricky to get seated into the rubber grommets. I found that temporarily screwing a couple of screws into the top mounting holes on the drive helped with getting a grip on it.
This, and standing the unit up on its end so that the drive would "fall" into the rubber grommets, worked OK for me. Entferne das Festplattenkabel, indem du es von der Festplatte gerade nach hinten abziehst. Entferne das Klebeband, welches den Temperatursensor an der Seite der Festplatte bedeckt. I reused the cover and kept it all in place with some polyamide tape. Including the sensor. This mini circuit board for the thermal sensor is very delicate and stuck on quite firmly, so be very careful removing it. I ended up cracking mine in half. My board assembly was snugly stuck most are and using only enough force to budge it at all also caused it to slip far enough as to crack apart my ZIF connector shells.
ZIFs are not so difficult so I have NO idea why the author wouldn't recommend removing then all for safety. If you know where I can find the temperature sensors, please let me know? I really don't want to have to take this back to the Genius Bar and they see what I've done. It's humiliating. I should have known better. And had I just been exploring on my own instead of mindlessly following this guide step-by-step, I would have removed all my cables first before trying to budge the logic board.
Top Tip! Dont bother trying to peal the sensor off. Instead start from the other end of the barcode sticker and peel that off and as you get closer to the sensor you will see that you will be able to safely remove the barcode sticker and thermal sensor at the same time. I was able to remove the sensor intact by twisting it back and forth rather than peeling it.
The sensor is held on by something like rubber cement; you can just rotate the sensor, gently , keeping it flat against the drive , until it becomes free. I did try removing the bar code sticker, but it just tore at the sensor as I peeled the bar code sticker away, so no help there. Agree with dhein. Works like a charm.
When it's time to attach the sensor to the new HD, press it in place fairly firmly and hold it there for 20 seconds or so. Then reapply the tape. So, once I peeled the heat sensors, what should I use to stick them back to the new drive?
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To make removing the sensor easier apply some alcohol to a cotton ball and wipe around the sensor. It should remove some of the adhesive to make it easier to gently slide off. Save the thermal tape from the hard drive and use a strip to secure the sensor back in place. Peeling the bar code sticker worked for me. The bar code sticker remained intact with the heat sensor still stuck to it. Be careful to keep the bar code sticker fairly low while peeling it because the heat sensor board is very thin and will flex along with it.
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I did not remove the heat sensor from the now unstuck bar code sticker. The bar code sticker had plenty of stickiness to it, which allowed me to just stick it to the new drive, heat sensor and all. I first peeled the bar code sticker off the new drive just in case having two layers of bar code stickers messes with the sensor's calibration.
I would recommend taking a sharp edge, e. Wenn du eine neue Festplatte installierst, haben wir eine OS X Installationsanleitung , welche dir dabei hilft. Carefully note the orientation of the hard drive cover before you remove it.
This is the 2-wire socket adjacent to the fan socket disconnected in step 5. With the screw removed, slide the plastic bracket out the back. The lower drive will come along with the bracket. I did not complete this guide. These translators are helping us fix the world! Want to contribute?
These instructions and a little common sense can also be used to replace the lower hard drive in the server version of the Mac Mini. Luckily that was the drive that had failed in my case. Replacing the upper drive looks like a tougher proposition. As with the above commenter, I accidentally mistook the fan's standoff for a screw and removed it while removing the fan. Also the top right fan screw's standoff came out along with it.
I edited the guide with a note on this. While replacing the antenna, it wasn't immediately clear why the screws weren't lining up, until I realized that two of the screws were in the otherwise free-floating but for the back grommets hard drive, I also added a note on that.
STEP It requires a little bending and cutting but it worked perfectly!! And as jon jon stated, it works like a lever - not a pull. You can feel it kind of click in to the lever points below. Ok, just did here. Thanks iFixit, for repacking my tools because the Brazilian mail lost them. So, for those who want to do the same, just have in mind that not ALL things happen just like the how-to.
I have to figure out What to do with the logic board removal tool And, no, I did not fuss with those initial thermal stuff, because they are impossible to unplug. I only fuss with the HD thermal. Excellent guide -- worked exactly as defined. Thank you! Followed the guide and it worked perfectly. One thing to note: This prevents the SSD from angling down towards the rear of the mini assuming you have the lugs placed back in the grommets in Step 17 , which makes replacing the 2 6.
Thank you for this guide - it was very helpful and well written. I highly recommend buying the mac mini logic board tool - it made a huge difference in the ease of that step. Excellent guide. Much less scary than it might look. Just take your time and read each steps comment before executing the step. I followed these instructions diligently. After re-assembly and booting the system, I am experiencing intermittent video, mostly black screen with flashing grey and brief appearance of the Apple logo.
While I cannot say for sure, the boot process makes it as far as the filevault login screen. I have tried multiple boot drives with no change. It seems like the system has been bricked. It is extremely irritating to take the whole thing apart and replace the upper drive, only to find that it was the other drive I needed to replace.
As far as I know there is know way of telling which drive was faulty! I removed the drive without doing steps 15 and I was able to pry it out with a little bit of force and then I installed an SSD. There is enough room for the hard to come out if you just nudge it out. Someone suggested using foam to make up for the 2. I used a piece of paper that I folded 3 or 4 times and then taped it to the SSD. The SSD slid in with no problem. Step 8 - The antenna has a lip on it the half crescent side. After the other side is lined up and in the groove, use a pair of tweezers or two mini screw drivers and stick them in two holes near the side that won't fit.
Gently lift the antenna grill into place as you push it towards the edge of the Mac mini. I was nervous about trying this, but making sure to read all comments, it worked! Reinstalling the antenna cover plate was the most difficult part as the tolerances are very tight. Took me longer than 55 minutes 90? I was able to reattach the thermal sensors with tape I had removed from the drive. My Mac mini is now twice as fast to start up 5 minutes to 2.
Many thanks. Many thanks for not only documenting the steps but also for encouraging not to afraid to go for it My Mini 's performance was strongly impacted by going to Mavericks and later OS, but the new SSD has compensated some of this loss: HI What odd is there is only 3 connectors on motherboard and no 4th one for cable piece that just stuck on top of hard drive for thermal sensor cable.
I don't see any instructions for my model, or did I miss them somewhere? I've got everything out of the mini shell except for the power supply. I've got both hard drives on the table - one in the protective plastic sheath with glued sensors, cables, etc. Incredibly, both hard drives are failing at the same time.
Does anyone know what the max height for a 2. I swapped out the gig disk in my mini not long ago, I replaced it with a 1 TB to hold audio imported into iTunes with the Apple lossless codec. I managed to do the swap without disconnecting anything other than the SATA cable.
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I tried disconnecting the thermal sensor wires, but due to the age of the hardware, I figured it would turn out badly trying to get those tiny brittle plastic connectors apart. So with some careful work I got the sensors unstuck from the old disk and placed on the new one, got it into place, tightened all fasteners, and reassembled.
Now this box, which is dedicated to CD importing and streaming audio via iTunes, can hold all the CDs I have on hand to import and then some. On my Mini, the 26mm T6 screw and stand-off removed in step 12 goes through the fan and has to be removed in step 3. Not sure if that was a design change mid production. I cocked mine up, one of the heat sensor connectors broke whilst trying to lift out with pry tool,. My external hard drive lights up so there is power going though, and the hdmi changes on my tv, but nothing else happens,.
Worked perfectly. The photos make it incredibly easy. Prying the logic board to move was a little sticky … and the other comment about the thickness of the SSD vs the old HDD is correct. I saw that some kits come with a rubber grommet, which would be helpful, but not required. It probably took more time to get the OS back on compare to swapping the drive out.
Thank again. Excellent guide, thank you iFix it. At some point I may replace it with a second HDD storage. Select a Language: Help Translate iFixit. Andrew Bookholt and 11 other contributors. Difficulty Moderate. Steps Time Required 55 minutes. Sections 6. Flags 0. Tools Buy these tools.